Down South

The south of France was one of those places where I wish I could pack everyone I cared about into my suitcase [aka you] and take them with me. The temperate Mediterranean climate, providing close access to the sea; the rows and rows of lavender, cherries, olives, grapes; the sing-songy southern French accent; the rainbow of window shutters and doors that make you want to go home and paint your house any shade of pastel; the almonds and warm chèvre and Herbes de Provence that make already delectable French food just that much better; the hand-made delicate pottery inspired by the poppy reds and the lavender purples; the watercolors and their artists drawn to the colors, the contrasts, and the rolling landscapes; the ancient villages that jut from the top of every hill; and all this from just four days of exploration in a little part of the Provencial region…Are you convinced yet to go back with me?

Our first 2 days were unfortunately not sunny and Mediterranean-like as we had expected but rainy and pretty cold (for me anyway, which I guess isn’t saying much). We drove to a town about 3 hours south of Voreppe in the region of Luberon called Cabrière d’Aigues. We rented a house, which actually would be better decribed as a grotto! It was an old hideout from the religious wars between the Protestants and the Catholics that the owner had restored. Coolest place I’ve ever slept; I took a shower in a cave! On the second cold day, we went to explore some old towns near us: Cucuron, Lourmarin, and Rousillons. In Lourmarin (which I can only pronounce correctly on the 5th time each time I try), it happened to be the market day (aka my favorite day) and we walked through a huge one with so many samples: olives, nougat, jams, cheese. I love the French. There were also clothes (I wanted every dress so I could look like an effortless French woman too, but something tells me its about more than the dress. If I find out their secret, I’ll let you know), handmade pottery and wood products, and of course fruits and vegetables–I ate my first tomatoes and strawberries of the year thanks to the warmer climate! After the market we strolled through the cobbled streets that after each bend surprised us with a garden or brightly painted shutter. After, in Rousillons, we went to see the “French Colorado”. Apparently, whoever named the site, had already been to Garden of the Gods and donned that description. Like Garden of the Gods, the earth in this area was a bright orange-red that contrasted the bright green pines surrounding it. My French siblings kept asking me if it was what my home looked like and were surprised to hear that I actually live 4 hours away from anything resembling the “French Colorado”, and that yes, it was still just one state [we have a ridiculously large country]. The color here, unlike Colorado, is due to the presence of ochre (I don’t even know what it is at Garden of the Gods), which people in the area utilize for paints and dyes. It’s very soft and stains the skin. After walking through “Colorado” we had dinner at a traditional Provencial restaurant and it was so good! A warm chèvre salad is a typical entrèe, but this restaurant had a twist: bread stuffed with chèvre and then baked with a side of greens. Ooh la la! (By the way the French do actually say that)

Saturday was one of my favorite days! We went to the Cote d’Azur and walked along Les Calanques (the coves) of Cassis near Marseille. The water in these coves was unreal. The day was also beautiful and sunny and exactly what you’d imagine in the south of France. We picnicked next to the sea and after walked above and around three different coves. There’s apparently a path that takes 4 or 5 days to walk from Cassis to Marseille, all around the coves. If anyone ever wants to go back there with me…

Sunday we went to some more old cities and spent lots of time in art exhibits (I get why all the artists flock to the south–I would) and we also went to two museums: one on the history of olive mills and the other on the history of stained glass. Both were so interesting! I’m now not only inspired to have a colorfully painted yellow house with pastel lavender shutters and vines sprawled all around it, but a small stained glass window and some olive trees to make my own oil. Thanks for giving me unrealistic aspirations, South of France.

Our last day, we went to a town called Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, famous for its pottery (the really pretty white and blue French ones) and visited a faïence to see how the pottery was formed and then painted. It’s a tradition that goes back to the 17th century. So beautiful! [I wasn’t allowed to take pictures, so google it!] After, we were very close to the Gorge du Verdon, which is known for its green water and rock climbing. We had lunch at the top and then walked down to the bottom next to the river. It was so beautiful and such a good end to our trip to the south. My only regret is it was way too early to see the lavender in bloom. Lots of lavender fields, they were just all gray–not quite the same effect. So, I have to come back. You in?

Pit stops on road trips in France are to ancient monasteries like this one.

Our grotto house! (We were welcomed with wine of course)

Lavender is the obvious inspiration for color and decoration in the south.

Overlooking the town we stayed in; our house is mostly hidden by that tree in the middle left.

I’ll take a pair of les volets violets, s’il vous plait.

Cicadas are another common symbol found in the south.

Yet another wonderful town on a hill.

Playing with the ochre!

Some really old bridge I already forgot the name of

This isn’t the traditional pottery from Moustiers, but I loved all the colors!

Just like home?

Poppies are my favorite

At the stained glass museum!

We also went to an ancient city made of these “bouris”; they are constructed only of stone: no mortar or anything to stick the stones together. Hundreds of them can be found in this part of France.