I’m dreaming of a w—igilia

I’m lucky to be in this region for a lot of reasons, and especially because I live in close proximity to other volunteers and their villages. Every volunteer in the region, whether education, health, or business, has the same shopping town, so I’m bound to see someone at the store. Kinda like in Pagosa! We’re also concentrated in a small region, making it possible to take a day trip or spend a weekend in another volunteer’s village. So during this break when I’m not allowed to venture too far, it’s been fun to see the nearby new places! I’ve loved the new roads I’ve taken these past few weeks. Just 50km away, the terrain, the foliage, even the language, changes. It also means others can come visit my village. So in this holiday season, in a new country and in a new culture, I spent Christmas with the two volunteers in my village, another from Group 48, and my neighbor.

I’ve been excited about Christmas (specifically the Eve) for weeks; even more excited than I get in the states. I hosted both dinners at my house, and convinced the other four to let me cook a traditional wigilia on Christmas Eve. As most of you reading this already know (and probably have eaten with me for the last 22 years), wigilia is the Polish-Catholic Christmas Eve meal. Technically, the day is spent fasting until the first star is out, which I got (ok, cheated) through by “tasting” my food prep all day. But hey, it’s summer here; stars come out much later than in Colorado (or Poland) at this time of year. Twelve courses are prepared to symbolize the twelve apostles; they are also all meatless (to give respect to the animals that were around Mary in the manger? Maybe. I actually have no idea; I’ve never questioned it until my neighbor asked). I made my 3 favorite dishes from the day because 1) twelve is a lot, 2) I don’t know how to make most of them, 3) I knew I’d still be stuffed after three. I made most things the day before, so Christmas Eve itself turned out to be very little prep. I made barszcz (beet soup) with uszka (mushroom dumplings) for the first course, gołąbki (stuffed cabbage rolls–ones for wigilia have mushrooms and barley) for the second, and pierogi (some with potato and cheese, some with sauerkraut and mushroom) for the third. Then, I made jabłecznik, an apple cake my Babcia Kuros would often make, serving it with some advokat (Polish eggnog) that I tried (and failed) to make as good as my Ciocia Mary’s. (I’m gonna blame it on my use of regular vodka–albeit imported from Poland– instead of spirytus). All things considered, I loved the dishes. While no where near as good as my mom’s, ciocias’, or babcias’, each was close enough to hit the spot and make the world feel a little smaller. My guests were very gracious as well; whether or not they really liked it or wanted it (mushrooms? beets? sauerkraut?) they tried and ate some of everything and, as usual, the uszka went the fastest (I even thought I made enough for leftovers…please). It was so nice to share my piece of home and traditions, even to fellow Americans.

And it was so therapeutic and satisfying. One of my biggest regrets in life is not learning Polish before my grandparents passed away. Since that’s not something I can rectify, hosting and planning my own wigilia made me feel that much closer to them, my family, and my roots. Things that are always there, no matter where in the world I find myself and who I’m surrounded by. So, yes, there are more Polish dishes to finally learn how to make and that little language hurdle I will finally need to get over, but it’s never too late, right? My first Christmas without my family was a good step in keeping those traditions alive. I love cooking anyway, but to use the same recipes and knead the same doughs and smell the same smells as the women in my life I aspire to be like did and do, feels like a satisfying continuation of time and tradition. The morning of Christmas Eve I was cleaning and scrubbing the floors and bathrooms while listening to the Polish Christmas carols my mom has on a CD (Spotify is amazing) and texting her every few hours to fretfully ask something about this or that recipe and I felt like she was right there. I also feel like I’m becoming more like her everyday (or at least hoping–she’s the best). Also, in the two days before Christmas Eve that I started cooking, the electricity went out for 8 hours each day and I didn’t have running water. And although it was a little annoying since I am now very acccustomed to these Peace Corps luxuries, I’m glad for it because it made it easier to feel connected to my babcias, who definitely cooked many a wigilia meal without those very things. Who knew as an American I would feel closer to Poland while in Namibia on a 95 degree Christmas day? C’est la vie.

Christmas day was also wonderful. Kirsten, the volunteer staying with me, made an amazing lasagna, Usone made a big green salad, my neighbor brought over beans and potatoes, while Jessi made pickles and Christmas cookies! I ate so much both days–so I definitely had the after Christmas why-did-I-eat-so-much-and-do-this-to-myself feeling. Which was nice in its own weird way. We spent the day doing at-home pedicures, watching Beauty and the Beast, and just enjoying each other’s company. No complaints!

Next is the new year! How did 2018 happen so fast? From China to France to Namibia, I feel really blessed for all the experiences that have fit in the last year. I’m excited to see what 2019 will have to offer! (Especially since I should be seeing some of your lovely faces).

I hope all of your Christmases were joyous and that you have an awesome end to this year. I’m looking forward to spending the last bit of time in 2018 exploring more new roads and places in this region, and bumping into more familiar faces on my next trip to town. Talk to you next year…

Pics (primarily of food):

The start of wigilia is the breaking of opłatek; you take your wafer around to everyone at the dinner and wish them well for the holidays and coming year. I’m glad these made it in a package I got right before the holidays!

Making the uszka. These were so fun!

Course 1: barszcz.

And we got to eat outside! It was a lovely evening.

Course 2: gołąbki

Course 3: pierogi

Dessert: jabłecznik

Pickle making! Super impressed with Jessi’s first attempt!

A little Christmas pampering

Merry Christmas!

Spent a night dormir a la belle etoile. It was incredible! I didn’t even sleep because I couldn’t stop staring at the stars. It was the day after the peak of the Geminid meteor shower, too. I’ve never made so many wishes!

New roads, new morning walks

Pumpkin soup with feta and baguettes

Invited to a wedding!

(Couldn’t get this rotated)

Forced to dance ha…I need some practice!

Found some kitties!

These hit the spot!

Net ball tournament in my village. It’s kinda like basketball and ultimate frisbee combined… hopefully I’ll play in next year’s tourney!