Zanzibar

The phrase hakuna matata may be ruined for me, even though Zanzibar evoked just that feeling. During my December holiday, I walked around this semi-autonomous part of Tanzania with one of my favorite volunteers (who sadly finished her two years of service!). I heard and saw words that I felt like I should understand. They could just almost be Silozi. Alas, I was in Eastern Africa, it was kiSwahili of course. Since they are both Bantu languages, however, that’s where the similarities come in–especially regarding structure and even some phrases. Like hakuna matata. Zanzibar was wonderful, but everyday we were constantly peppered with “Jambo, hakuna matata” when the speaker correctly assumed our familiarity with the global hit The Lion King. What they couldn’t assume about us is that that these are words we know and use and say (although not together in a clichéd setting) since hakuna matata means the same in Silozi (hakuna means nothing/there isn’t any; matata means problems). We probably heard this phrase 30x our first day walking around Stone Town, the most populous part of the island. It became much less annoying though once we learned to reply “Jambo, mambo?” (hello, how are you?) and other greetings, leading to a lot of impromptu Swahili lessons (including learning that in Zanzibar/Swahili many people say hakuna shida when nothing’s wrong–I guess that didn’t sound good enough for Disney…). Anyway, learning some new language made the trip that much better and more memorable. It also helped make quick connections to Zanzibaris, which led us to better food, experiences, and cultural connections. Zanzibar felt like my first real travel trip during Peace Corps, since I was away from anything I’ve known or learned about in Namibia. I’d been subconsciously craving a getaway and have since felt very refreshed (and in an island state of mind for a month after). If you get a chance to go, do it do it do it. As usual, I’ll prefer to finish my talking through pictures and captions, and a surprise limerick. I’m trying to get some release in poetry/creative writing, but I still haven’t gotten more sophisticated than basic rhyming. And I don’t have that knack for limerick humor. But I’m trying, and enjoying. So that should count for something.

This was a lagoon we went to while snorkeling a little ways off the island. These are mangrove trees during low tide.

Sunsets and birds. Two of my favorite things.

Traveled to a secret cave with our taxi -driver-turned-tour- guide! It was fun to swim in the cold fresh water and simultaneously freaked me out (I’m a bit claustrophobic…).

Looking out of the cave

It rained on us, but fortunately only for one morning while we were driving to the north of the island. It made some really neat sky though!

The rest of the days were sunny and perfect…

With clear clear water at a perfect temp

Paintings of dhows, traditional sailboats

Walking along in Stone City, where most locals in Zanzibar live. There were nightly food markets, winding narrow streets to meander through, and lots to explore.

Stone City not only had an abundance of ornate and/or colorful doors, but cats too.

Zanzibar is a predominately Muslim island, which I realized was my first time in a place where this is the case. It was cool to hear the callings for prayer every few hours, and notice the Islamic influence (as well as Omani, Indian, and East African influences… Zanzibar has had many throughout its history!) in food, clothing, and lifestyle (tons of hookah cafes, for example).

Some fortress I already forgot the history of…

The food in Zanzibar was amazing. Lots of seafood and spice and fresh fruit. And because of its mélange of cultures, unique island specialties are in abundance and street food is YUM. This is my favorite, called urojo. It’s a spicy stew, filled with ingredients like hard-boiled eggs, falafel, kebab, mango purée, potato, cilantro, onions, and magic. Another favorite, not pictured, is samaki wa nazi, or fried fish in a coconut curry. Those could be my lunch and dinner every day for the rest of my life…

Samosas+naan+baba ganoush+hummus+ falafel

Fried plantain from the night market! Also great from the night market and not pictured: shawarma, chai (amazing chai), Zanzibari pizza (like a flatbread with egg and other toppings)

Urojo round 3? Accompanied by a friend

The middle of the island is very lush, and there are several large spice plantations. We went on a tour of the government-owned one, and saw how spices look at different stages Of growth as well as how they grow. Which if you know me you know this beats a beach any day. Did you know peppercorns grow on vines? And the different colors (black, red, white) depend on which stage of growth they are harvested? Or that vanilla flowers only have natural pollinators in Madagascar and Comoros? So if you’re somewhere else (like Zanzibar) each flower needs to be hand-pollinated. Now I see why it costs $8 USD per pod…

Nutmeg!

Cinnamon stick and bark, I forgot what the flowers are…

Field of lemongrass! Makes me want a tisane…

Here’s my ode to Zanzibar, even though it ruined future places for me… how can it get better than there?

On the coastal lands of Zanzibar,

I wondered how I came so far.

This year was all teaching,

And now I’m just beaching.

Ev’rywhere else is simply sub-par.